Stage 6 Rieti to Rocco Sinibalda

Today was the longest physical distance thus far, though not necessarily the longest time. Initially starting off quite flat walking through a valley I was faced with what felt like an almost vertical slope. The problem with such things is one thinks one has reached the top and it will flatten out a for a bit, only to find a longer steeper slope around the corner. I was just grateful that I wasn’t coming down it! Such climbs rather slow you down, although being in the hills there was an occasional breeze which did help. Eventually after stopping at a picnic bench for some haribo I found myself in a lovely village called Belmonte in Sabina. It was here that a couple of friendly old ladies gave me my pilgrims credential stamp.

It had been my intention to pray through the rosary as I walked, which rather shows how naive I was- for I use my trekking poles all the time now. I have found the Jesus prayer to actually be rather helpful, particularly for going up hill.

“Lord Jesus Christ, Son of God, have mercy on me a sinner.”

It was back on the path which is largely well signed, I knew I had over 4 miles to go but I was reassured the worst of it was over for today. These are the signs that have been my guide and have only occasionally been missing.

Upon arriving in Rocca Sinibalda with its central castle which was sadly closed today, I made my way to my accommodation. The town was very very quiet and I learned that there are just 350 residents here now, before the war there were 3500. It was the usual lack of jobs that sent the young to the cities. Rome being around 25 miles (40km) as the crow flies. It was here that I encountered my first miscommunication. The gentleman kindly offered me some refreshment like water or orange or cucumber. I assumed he meant cucumber in the water which sounded very appealing, or perhaps just slices of cucumber, which if cold might be nice. However he turned up with something far superior- a huge wedge of watermelon! I confess after doing my pilgrims routine of stretching, electrolytes consumption, showering and laundry I collapsed on the bed and slept for quite some time. The room as another exquisite view, like so many I have been blessed with.

After another multi course dinner of Italian home cooking I took a very short postprandial stroll to see the back of the castle- the “tail” as it is designed (from the 12th C) as an eagle apparently. It is quite unusual it must be said, sadly it only opens at weekends.