Stage 13: Collepardo to Casamari
The clouds were no longer looming, but threatening – it was only a matter of time before they poured forth. Yesterday may have been a race against time, today was against Mother Nature.

Immediately I was faced with descending the mountain, rapidly, with full knowledge after a pleasant walk in the valley you will need to scale the other side. Since I know those clouds will break I tried to keep a pace. So lost in my own world and thoughts, I failed to realise I had missed my turning. It was only half a mile later, when I thought I had not seen any signs, and that I felt like I was going back in the direction I had just come, did I realise my error. When I turned around and walked back to where I was meant to turn off I felt rather embarrassed. There were two new very helpful boards and signs indicating the way to go, right there, and I had not seen them. I wondered how many times in life I had done that, walked past the equivalent of neon signs, unnoticed. After this small humiliation which only I knew about until now, it was a pleasant enough walk, sky getting darker, but I was sheltered in the forest. Bathing in their green light, protected by their arms.
Then the forest went silent.
It was eerie as I realised that the birds had stopped singing, there were no calls between any animals at all. I stopped, no wind, air, or water- just the deafening silence of the forest. I knew instinctively that when the forest goes silent, it isn’t good, but I was racing against those water bombs in the sky, so onwards I went.
Then I quickly learnt why the forest had gone silent.
The drumrolls vibrated from the sky, burgeoning with rain, until at last it held no more.
I was in a tiny little hamlet, a place with no name when the rain came. Knowing it wasn’t wise to keep going I stopped and stood under what I thought was an abandoned shed staircase. Then across the way I saw an old lady calling out to me- I called back “Pellegrina, a Casamari” hoping to convey who I was and I wasn’t a loiterer. She came across with her golf umbrella and spoke in Italian, of which I may have caught a handful of words but I realised she was kindly offering me shelter under her porch and seat. It would have been unthinkable to refuse.
She left me to sit for a while and behold! Returned with espresso and dolce! She made a quick phone call to her friend who I think she was meant to be having coffee with, and explained to her that I was there. This lady brought chocolate and home grown strawberries for me, next thing I know Gina (my gracious hostess) has the home made amaro out for us all, her husband having joined us too. “A wee tot” of amaro to warm up. We bumbled by, and I was able to answer some questions, they were concerned I was cold, but the husband pointed out I was young. I felt terrible that I had put them out and they were sitting out there too. All I could do was express my thanks with a smile, politely accept their hospitality and be on my way as soon as the rain eased.
I was hungry and you fed me, I needed shelter and you provided.